The Last Chapter

There comes a time whilst travelling that the cravings for things you can only find at home turns into a yearning. No – not just for Vegemite. I missed watching Carlton get flogged. I missed sunshine. I missed the screeching noise of cicadas’ in the later afternoon. I missed Eddie Maguire's hosting “Who Want's to be a Millionaire” rather than the Greek Spiros Marionos, Italian Fabio Velentino or Egyptian Abdul-Haleem. I missed our supermarkets. I missed playing in my garden. I missed some bloody great friends. I missed home.

And so it was time to head to the airport for one last time. After picking up some luggage left in Heathrow while we were travelling (no need for the thirty extra pairs of Kathy’s pants in Europe) we now had enough suite cases to cater for 50 people. But unfortunately we were not travelling Business Class so were limited to 1 case and 1 hand luggage each. I was beginning to think it may have been cheaper to fly business class rather than pay for the extra bags. After much packing and unpacking, discarding snow boots and kitchen sinks, giving away prams and kids clothing, we were down to 1 bag extra – not bad for 12 months away. However this was on the assumption that the 50kg crammed in to my day pack would go un-noticed at check in.
Unfortunately the sweat running down my face and the excruciating pained expression as my body was bent backwards due to the weight was noticed - “can you put your bag on the scales sir”. So now we had a bag and a half to send back as cargo. Another repack (including my travel diary) and the luggage was on a slow boat to home.

The family on the other hand were heading for the plane – not together but Kathy and the kids flying Virgin Atlantic and me Singapore airlines. Now due to my testicles being removed earlier due to this decision I don’t want to go in to the specifics of why we flew separately but at least we were leaving and arriving at the same time. Now I could tell you all about being upgraded to business class and having a supermodel sitting next to me but there is no way I would say anything as Kathy endured 23 hours in a confined space with three children.

But here we are now – home. The end of a fantastic 13 months and a life changing experience for us all. I am going to miss writing this blog and boring you all about what we are doing but it is time to hang up the key board for the last time. But before I do I might do one more to capture the best - and worst – of our adventure. But you will have to wait a week or so for me to overcome the jet lag – it is 1am as I sit and type this so must go and force my self to sleep.

Full of hot air

Well we have finally arrived home so it is time to try to catch up with our last few days of travel. Normally I would have gone on to explain the fantastic boat trip we did down the Nile. This would normally have included some similes and metaphors to explain the villages we passed and the scenes of local village women washing on the banks while children played in the water; I would then wax lyrical of the importance of the Nile to the people and used copious statements such as “life blood of Egypt” and “river of life”. Then I would have quoted a whole lot of facts about the length of the river, how many people rely on it and other trivial stats that I make up because I know no one ever checks if they are correct. But unfortunately, I cant do any of this. Not because it wasn’t a fantastic and relaxing 7 hours cruising to the Temple of Dendera and then back but because my diary is hopefully somewhere in transit on its way to Sydney as we speak.

But again I am getting ahead of my self. Before I explain why the diary has its own first class ticket to Sydney I need to finish our trip in Egypt. The last few days involved more temples than you can poke a stick at. It seems that all the who’s who of Kings were buried in Luxor. Tutenkhamon, Ramses I through XI, Seti and Elvis Presley have tombs here – well – I cant really vouch for Elvis. While many were buried in the Valley of the Kings, even more visually impressive was Karnak Temple where they all tried to out do each other with the biggest temple, poles or statues. Built and enlarged over a thirteen hundred year period and covering 247 acres, the Temple includes the Hypostyle Hall of 135 Pillars, a towering site even with the bus load of tourists that descended on the temple at exactly 11.05am (so we found out!).

But the highlight of Egypt had to be an early – And I mean early – NO, I don’t think you really understand - A BLOODY early wake up to get catch a bus, then a boat then a bus before boarding a hot air balloon over this fantastic country all before the sun popped its head over the horizon. Thanks to Bethany’s money making skills we decided to do something special and you could not get more special than this. It gave Egypt a whole different perspective as you floated silently (except for the deafening roar of the burners every few minutes to propel us into the stratosphere) over the temples, sugar cane fields, villages and desert. Forever memorable.

As the plane took off, I was reminded of something I read which described Egypt as "A Land of Contrasts. You can't either love or hate Egypt. You simply have to do both. You love the history, you hate the dirt. You love the natural beauty, you hate the chaos. You love the chaos, you hate the noise. You love the food, you hate the daily evacuation of your bowels. You love the heat. You hate the cold. You love the warmth of the people, you hate that they all see you as a walking wallet. You love The Nile. You hate the pollution.” A good summary of an incredible adventure.


Ps: Over the last month we have had the most amazing weather with sunshine all the way. Unfortunately I made a joke in my previous blog that I hope we don’t break the Egyptian drought. Well, it turns out that we did. For what the locals tell me was the first time in somewhere between 2 and 10 years (depending on who you spoke to) we encountered cloudy skies on our last day and a spattering of rain that was just enough to disturb every particle of dust and dirt and propel it into the air and ultimately into your clothes, hair, lungs and every other orifice no matter how well covered. I think it was a sign to say time to go home.

Curse of Tutakhamun

While in Cairo we visited the Egyptian Museum, a labarynth of rooms housing over 12000 items covering every period of egyptian history. It is hard not to be overwhelmed by the stone carvings, jewlery, gold, pottery and all sorts of treasures recovered from the sands. But at centre stage was Tutankhamun and his 1700 items incliding a glittering solid gold death mask and gold coffin. So now that we were in Luxor we had to go and see the actual tomb where the treasures were found and his mummy which is still inside.

Having decided this was actually meant to be the relaxing bit of our trip we joind a small organised tour of the tombs deep in the mountains surrounding Luxor. A quick stop at Colossi of Memnon (2 60 foot high status of Amenhotep III) we went to Hatshepsut temple built in the sheer limestone cliff face. Stunning reliefs, inticate carvings and murals which have retained their colour for over 3000 years. An amazing history that would make great soap box TV involving Hatsheput taking the throne illigitimatelly, pretending to be a man, the son finally killing her and taking the throne himspef, then defacing and destroying all traces of her.

Next stop Valley of the Kings and several tombs hidden in the cliff deep underground with coloured chambers telling the story of the journey though the afterlife. And the most recently discovered tomb by Cater in 1922 - Tutankhanmun. While not as ornate it was amazing to see his mummy still inside the tomb.

Last stop was Deir al mMedina or the valley of the artisans with more beautiful mut much smaller chambers that you had to crouch down to discover.

What a day!

A day in the life of a tourist

Next day, leaving the kids by the pool I thought I would do a simple task and go and buy some fruit. After getting mollested by multiple caleche drivers, taxis, shop owners, beggers and I swear even a stray cat pinned me in a corner and demaded "bakish" (money). I really was starting to realise how friendly Cairo was. After much looking and no sign of fruit stalls I finally relented and agreed a price with a caleche driver to take me to the markets and back. After agreeing a price and much friendly chatter we arrived - he even offered to buy me the fruit from the stall. See - Luxor is not that bad after all.................. until 3 seconds after I got back in that he demanded we stop and look at one of his friends shop. After strong words he then said the agreed price was british pounds not egyptian (about 10 times more). By this stage i was considering throwing my self out of the carriage but luckily he stopped so it was time to make a leap. So here i was in the middle of Luxor having no idea where I was.

So returning to what I know best i jumped in the local mini bus heading in what I though was the right direction. Amazingly it went back past our hotel. An interesting experience all for a bag of oranges and bannanas.

I think tommorow we might take an organised trip to the tombs???

Luxor - the gold coast of Egypt

Street after street of cheap tourist trinkets; a line of caleche (horse carrages) lined up like one big taxi rank taking unsuspecting tourists for a ride (in more ways than one); the consant call of "hey mister what your name" or "where you from" then a somewhat intimidating arm direting you into their shop. My first impressions of Luxor are not the most flattering and gives an indication of some of the negative things tourism can bring to a country.

Round 1 began the minute we arrived at the airport. Being well used to avoiding porters we pushed passed several who were physically trying to take the bags out of our hands and headed for the taxis. Round 2 commenced with the bombardment of 257 taxi drivers and commnced hard negotiation and finally agreed a price. Rond three was a new one to us as reinforcements arrived from ring side swooping on the bags to lift on the roof of the taxi and again demand money. By this stage wee were fully punch drunk but thought we had the upper hand until we realised that the person we negotiated with was not actually a taxi driver but a middle man who then demanded money for negotiating a price. By this stage it was time to throw the towel in but yes - we did get to our hotel somewhat less in cash than when we arrived.

Not being compleatly defeated, we threw the bags in the room and decided to try the local mini bus into town instead of a taxi. Costing the equiv. of 5c Aust it is surprising that none of the tourists use this. But the people most surprised were those in the mini bus when 2 white toursits and their children squeezed in. We made our way to Luxor Tempe on the bans of the Nile. An unbeleivable temple with huge carvings of pharaohs and walls covered in hylogriphics. For a temple 1500BC it is amazing how much remains in tact.

But after travelling for 3 weeks we really came here to relax so time to get back and find that pool!

temples of the gods

While Greece may be a city in a state of building or repair it seems Cairo is a city of rubble. To give you an idea, the mosque of as-Salih Tula was built in 1160 on the second floor of the building. However due to the accumulation of dirt and rubbish over centuries the street has risen by 3 metres and the mosque is now at street level.

Having spent the last 2 weeks looking at amazing christian churches we thought we must also give Allah a turn and visit some of these mosques. In particular Al-Qalaa with its huge mosque founded by Mohammed Ali (i didnt realise he was more than a boxer??). Even the kids did a quick prayer.

But what we really came to Cairo to see was the pyramids. We spent the morning exploring in amazement at these structures built over 5000 years ago. With 20 million blocks in the daddy pyramid (king Khufu) it is difficult to comprehend how they moved each one weighing over 2 tonnes. Also amazing to realise that the sides of the pyramids are only 4cm different in length. I reccon modern builders cant even get that good. As it was so fantastic we ventured back in the eavening to watch the sun go down over them followed by a light show.

But with Oz calling there was one more stop before home. Luxor. As you may have realised this is where I am now. But getting hre was an adventure in it self. but the little man is telling me my time is up so you will have to wait till my next post.

Living Cairo

It is very dificult to describe Cairo in words as it is a combination of sights, sounds and smells. Leaving the family to rest I decided to venture to Khan al Khalili - one of the biggest bazaares in the middle east. I tentatively stepped out into the chaotic yet somehow still in control streets of Cairo. Your senses are first bombarded with the honking of horns - used not in an aggressive manner but a "honk" - I am here or a "beep beep" coming through. The traffic is endless and it seems the population of 20 million are all on the road at the same time.

Getting a taxi is easy as the cabs descend on any tourist like flies to a fresh dog turd. The difficulty is negotiating a fair price which is generally proportional to the condition of the car. I atleast got one that had a front windscreen and breaks...(although I dont think they were ever used). Hurtling in to the traffic we join the living breathing beast 5 lanes of cars streaming down a 2 lane road. A 12 seater bus with 32 people hanging from the windows pulls out in front of us. We pass a donkey pulling a cart full of fruit. Shit - watch out for the car driving the wrong way. The taxi driver leans over and says - "Cairo - there are no rules in Cairo".

But it is not the cars that you need to avoid but the pedestrians. There are no crossings so people cross everywhere. Just like the game of 'frogger' people dart between the streams of traffic - many not even looking at the oncoming traffic. But in some miracelous way there is no urgency at it seems that it is accepted that the car will swerve....well most times anyway.

Ariving at the market 7 lives shorter you enter another world of brass cooking items, spices, food as well as the usual kitch tourist trinkets. As you walk down the narrow alleys there is the constant calling of the shop keepers, the whistled of barrow men pushing through the crowds and islamic chants booming from the loundspeakers.

An amazing city and again surprisingly very friendly. Looking forward to exploring more.

Best laid plans

After the previous days adventure we thought we needed to make sure everything was OK to get to the airport so...
Alarm set - check
bags packed - check
map of how to get to airport - check
confirm directions with local - check
plenty of time even with some traffic - check
hop in to car and go................go???............GO???????

Turns out the bloody car bettery is flat. What number do I ring? - Shit - bloody mobile phone has run out of credit! What time is it? What do we do - SHIT SHIT! Still need to fight our way through peak hour traffic. tripple shit.

After taking several valium I found a public phone, found a number and after spending 10 minutes spelling the street address I hang up hoping that I have not sent them to Italy! Amazingly 10 minutes later a little motor bike arrives and we are on our way just in time to get our plane to Cairo.

NO - I will not be hiring a car in Egypt

lost in Athens

They say you have to be mad to drive in Athens so I guess that sums me up. But before I get on to that adventure, on Thursday 10th we explored the one peice of Athens that actually WAS designed by an architect - Killikrates and Iktinos to be precise. We ventured to the Acropolis and the imposing Parthenon perched on its hill. Sitting in the theatre of Dionyson (the most ancient theatre in the world) you could almost hear the ghosts of Aeschylus or Sophocles performing their plays with the applause of 17000 spectators.

But after visiting the big cities we decided it was time to see some country side so the next day we hired a car to go exploring. Driving through the country side it seems everything is either in a state of repair, being built or in neglect. The countryside could not be described as beautiful but had its own unique look with barren limestone hills and valleys of orange and olive trees. Passing over the Corinth Canal - an amazing bit of engineering where a mamoth 23 m wide slice through the earch has been dug to join the Agean and Ionian Seas to allow ships to pass. From here we drove to the fortified palace of Mycenae then on to epidaurus with its magnificant theate built in the 4th Cent. BC.

The day over it was just a simple matter of driving back to Athens and our apartment....or so we thought! Getting to athens was fine until we hit the maze of one way streets, poor street signs, dead ends, billions of cars and three tired and cranky kids in the back seat. Driving around hopelessly lost and Kathy having a nervous breakdown i was having fun....NOT!. After 1 and half hours we finally stumbled across our apartment.

Now - just a simple matter of driving to the airport tomorrow?????????

Spiros home town

OK - so have caught up with our travels so far. If you have not guessed we are now in Athens.

Arrived OK after the usual 'taxi driver tries to rip off tourist' scam. We are getting used to this by now and luckily had reinforcments with the lady that met us in Athens to show us around the apartment. What was a 40 euro ride he tried to charge and additional 20 euro.

Athens is a concreaters dream. They say there is no such thing as architects in Athens - only Civic engineers. So different to the amazing buildings of Barcelona. Modern Greek buildings could best be described as functional. There is the square flat, the square flat with balcony or the square flat with marble steps. The streets seem is a constant state of reconstuction and there are more bags of concrete outside every building than there are street lamps.

But today was spent enjoying great greek food and dragging the kids around the National Archaelogical Museum. Somehow the idea of looking at old pots and statues of more naked people did not excite them so we played a game of find the characters in the Hercules movie. While my ancient history lesson at school helped a bit it was still amazing seeing primitive 3500BC vases, 1600BC gold Mycenaean treasures, sculptures of the many gods and heros such as Zeus, Poseidon and my fave - Aphrodite - the goddess of looovveeee!

This eavening we sat and had a beer and watched the sun set over the 'tower of the winds' (2nd C AD tower) and the famous Parthenon (our trip tomorrow). Amazingly we have not had one day of rain and nearly every day has been sunny. I wonder if we will break the 2000yr drought in Egypt? But i speak too soon. We have 2 more days in Athens to explore so till next time.